The hyperkinetic metropolis of Mumbai is
rightly given the epithet of ‘The City that Seldom Sleeps’. Like an obsolete
piece of machinery, tarnished on the surface and corroding at the edges, the
city ‘chugs’ on relentlessly. No
‘spanner in its wheels’ can render it inactive for long. The hubbub of everyday
life ensures that there isn’t a reary moment in the average Mumbaikar’s life.
One can almost feel the throbbing pulse of omnipresent bustle in the city’s
smog charged atmosphere. Nothing epitomizes the ‘Mumbai way of life’ better
than its quintessential local trains – the city’s lifeline.
It was thus, with a mixture of great
anticipation and trepidation, that I first commuted using the famed Mumbai
local. After waiting an eternity in a serpentine queue, I finally purchased a
flimsy ticket and walked purposefully to the precise platform. The fisherwomen
chattered away animatedly, blissfully oblivious of the fact that their assorted
fish baskets, emitting a most ghastly stench, were obstructing the entry to the
platform. A rapidly swelling crowd congregated all along the platform, awaiting
the train. Surely there wasn’t enough room for them all! I thought to myself,
in wonderment. But lo and behold! As soon as the train chugged into the
station, even before it could come to a halt, I was swept into the raging sea
of humanity that drove me into a cramped bogey – moving with the flow, quite
literally! I barely had time to collect my thoughts when a second ‘wave’ (of people!)
charged into the bogey. I found myself without a seat, standing (read
crouching!) near a window, gasping for air. Within minutes the bogey was amok
with sweaty bodies jostling for space. Expletives in several languages rang out
from various corners, as the train exited the station briskly.
I gazed out of the grimy window to be met
with the frightful sight of people precariously standing on the footboard, most
nonchalantly. I looked around intently attempting to soak in the myriad sights
and smells. An obese Gujarati merchant
yakked away incessantly on his BlackBerry, as if his life depended on it. A
smartly dressed Sardar carefully inspected his shirt for any stains and
glowered at anyone who dared to tread on his fancy shoes. An elderly South Indian couple huddled
together in a corner, whispering in an indecipherable language. A bevy of
folksy, loquacious Marathi women talked about seemingly everything – rising
food prices, balding husbands, potential matches for Ranbir Kapoor and Rahul
Gandhi were all discussed with equal fervor! “Aajke joghonno raaash!”, remarked
an overly healthy Bengali lady to her disinterested husband, on the terrible rush that Tuesday
morning. Hawkers came peddling a
multitude of products ranging from torches, knives and questionable throat
lozenges to scented candles and ‘magic money purses’ (a fancy name for your
wallet!). I watched in awe as an
enterprising few, making judicious use of time, tried catching a nap whilst
standing in the congested aisles. A toddler bawled uncontrollably somewhere in
the background. The dank, fetid air made
breathing an unenviable challenge. A kindred soul beside me advised me to move
towards the exit a couple of stations before my intended stop. Heeding his
advice, I made my way, inch by agonizing inch towards the ‘gate’, colloquial
for exit. One had to contend with the multiple threats posed by pickpockets and
flailing limbs hitting you where it hurts most whilst bearing with the
unremitting ‘breathing down the neck’! Strategically positioned near the exit,
the now customary sea of humanity shoved me out of the train and onto the dusty
platform. I walked away mostly unscathed, melting into the surging populace of
commuters. Thus, ended my maiden excursion on a Mumbai local train – one etched
in my memory forever!